That’s actually an understatement. Getting around in Ghana can swing between the ease of use line taxis, that take you along local routes, but then also leave you stranded in a town without any idea how to get back. Generally all you need to do is find a station, where taxis and tros wait for passengers. At times it is difficult to find the proper station, and once you get there, you must depend on the kindness of strangers to point you to the right area. To find a tro, there are sometimes signs posted on the roof of the tro, but the most reliable method is to listen for someone to be yelling loudly and rapidly the name of the destination.
Before I get ahead of myself, let me clarify the types of transport. When I say taxi, I refer to the taxis most people are used to. Sometimes they are on a fixed route, for a very cheap price. In this case you wait by the road and jump in when a car with an empty seat comes about. These taxis get crammed fast, and there have been multiple occasions I’ve been part of a cab with 8 or 9 people in a vehicle with 5 seats. A metro bus system would serve the same purpose, but there are only one or two public busses that I’ve seen thus far. Taxis take up the majority of the auto fleet in Ghana. You can also hire a dropping taxi to take you to a specific destination, like you would in the Western world. However, there is no meter, and you must negotiate a price before you sit down. I learned this the hard way, and was overcharged for a cab in Accra that took left me on the wrong side of town. The drivers don’t usually understand where you want to go, but will drive and leave you somewhere regardless.
A tro-tro refers to a conversion/cargo van that is anywhere from 20 to a few years old. Most of the time I’ve noticed there is not a functioning speedometer, gas gauge or any other functioning dial. These tros are quite uncomfortable, and usually seat 15 - 25 people, when there could comfortably be 10 or 15.
Now to the actual driving. Koforidua has about 4 functioning stoplights, this is not true everywhere. It is not uncommon to see officials in a white coat and hat directing traffic. Drivers here do not necessarily use turn signals, but honk (frequently) to let cars and people know they are coming their way. Speeds are usually far too fast for conditions, and I doubt anyone here could define hydroplaning. On my last trip out of Koforidua, we hit a bicyclist not more than 5 minutes out of town. We were almost pushed off the road by a large tanker carrying inflammable liquid as it dodged one of the many large potholes. This trip occurred during a rainstorm while traversing the Akaupem hills, and I was sitting in the front row, between the driver and another passenger, on top of a makeshift seat that covered the engine. Due to this, as we drove, the seat was continuously warmer and warmer.
Overtaking a vehicle and simply rounding corners (most of which are blind) can cause one to cross your fingers and pray that you make it through each stretch of road alive. Here honking is actually useful to inform oncoming vehicles, but I have seen quite a few cars on the side of the road from head on collisions. Because of this, we try to sit near the back of the vehicle, so that in case of accident you face a little better chance of survival.
When you travel to Accra, there is road construction for the miles leading to the city, so you are on an unpaved, rough road for up to an hour. Afterwards you are thankful for any sort of paved surface on which to drive.
Drivers here do not have any concern for bystanders. Unlike many cityscapes of America, this is not a pedestrian friendly area. I’ve been nearly hit on several occasions, and have been met with laughter each time.
I could go into detail of each trip, but that wouldn’t leave me much to tell when I get back. In short, after this expedition I should feel confident traveling just about anywhere in the world.
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